Skylarking

After spending four days at Tarpon Springs, we felt we needed to move on. The weather had kept us there for an extra day, so we were feeling a bit restless. The weather was still windy, but no rain was forecast for today. We settled up our tab for the stay and prepared to depart in the mid afternoon. .

We did not have far to go today; we were only heading to an anchorage about fifteen miles away. On the way out I had researched fuel options and saw there was a fuel dock around the corner from us that had real good prices. I cannot pass up $2.73 a gallon, especially when we take on over two hundred gallons. It would have been ten cents cheaper by if we paid cash, but I did not have that much cash on hand. This is some of the cheapest fuel we’ve seen on the trip so far. We have been asked how much fuel we’ve used so far and we haven’t kept track due to the fact that we fill up whenever we find cheap fuel. I’m sure we will be able to figure out all of the costs at the end by looking at credit card bills, but it is not something we track as of now. We approached the fuel dock and the I thought we had it perfect, but the guy on the dock refused to take the line from Lauren, saying we should turn and approach from the other direction. I was not too happy with this as we had a perfect landing as far as I was concerned, but what could I do but continue on and turn around for another approach. We came to the dock and he finally grabbed the line that she could literally hand over to him and not have to throw it ,and we got secured to the fuel dock. Once fueled up, we departed again heading out the river and toward the Gulf to find our anchorage.

The winds today were forecast to be in the double digits, and it was quite windy when we left. The anchorage we had looked at on the computer looked to be somewhat sheltered, but when we got there it was clear it was not due to the direction which the wind was blowing. We approached the small island and skirted our way around the shallow areas around it. We tried to tuck in somewhat close, but it was shallow all around. We dropped anchor about a hundred yard off the island. The wind was coming form the east, so it blew across the open water toward us and built up some waves. Since we were as close as we felt comfortable getting, we dropped the anchor and made sure it was set well. Then we had nothing to do but hang out and wait for the wind to hopefully settle down. The waves were building, but we were somewhat comfortable with our bow into them, and not too much rocking, especially being weighed down with full tanks. Unfortunately for Frank there was no dinghy ride into land with these conditions. Thankfully we had departed later in the day, so he had plenty of land time before we left. Just as the sun was setting a sailboat pulled up and anchored not too far from us. The wind was supposed to die down as it got later in the evening, but it was still blowing strong. We eventually fired up the generator and made dinner after a beautiful sunset. The wind continued to blow and the forecast kept changing to show high winds throughout the night until 10pm at least. After dinner, we settled in and just had to go with the flow. The movement of the boat wasn’t too bad, so we eventually called it a night and retired for the evening, trusting the anchor would hold us.

Morning came and we were still in the same place we had anchored, although we had shifted because the wind direction had changed. I looked out the window and the sailboat was still there and they had quite large flames coming from their grill- they must have been cooking a heck of a breakfast! I watched them for a bit to make sure all was well, and it looked like it was just breakfast being prepared. We did our morning routine, including taking Frank to the island since the wind had settled down. The island had a sign that I did not notice in the evening that said “NO ANIMALS”, but I pretended not to see it since I was already ashore. Frank did his business shortly after landing and I was eaten alive by the mosquitoes in the same amount of time.

By 9am we were ready to depart and head to our next destination: Clearwater Beach. We had scoped out the anchorage when we came here on the trolley from Tarpon Springs, so we knew what we were expecting. What we did not know at the time was the weather. Tonight has more high winds and storms approaching, so we are on the fence of anchoring or finding a marina…

The trip to Tarpon Springs was uneventful again, just how we like it. We had our escort of dolphins jumping around the boat as we traveled and finally got some good pictures of them. We had a longer trip today and didn’t get to our destination until around 5pm, but we were able to stream the Browns game while in transit and that made the trip a little more enjoyable with the win. The dock situation was between some pilings and a small quarter dock on one side. There were boats on either side as we approached, and the channel is shallow if you go outside of it. On the first approach, I didn’t feel like we had it just right, so I aborted and turned back out to the channel. There were several people on the dock watching and some were ready to assist as we pulled in. Since I had aborted, I looked behind us and noticed a giant motor-cat which was coming up the channel. I tried hailing them on the VHF, but got no response. I continued with my maneuver and started to turn. They had stopped, and as I was passing by I yelled over to him my intention to turn around. He said he was turning around also as we were at the end of the channel, and we would pass each other in the process. That sounded okay to me, so I started my turn. As we were coming around I was watching the depth finder get lower and lower. Just as we were in the last turn, I realized we were no longer moving. We were grounded. Ughh. The good thing about around here though is it is soft sand and mud on the bottom, not rocks or shells, so I throttled up and powered us through it. Now we were turned around and headed back to the skinny docking situation. My fear was we would spear the boat next to us as we were pulling in as I was fighting the current and the wind. They would have no chance against our steel beast, so I took it as slow as I could and still maintain steering. We made it in with a little help from the people waiting for us, and we were thankful for the helping hands.

Tarpon Springs: “found along the shore of the Gulf of Mexico, Tarpon Springs was named for the fish (Tarpon) found in abundance in nearby waters. But it also is known as the “sponge capital of the world,” and for its 51 miles of waterfront allure. In addition, Tarpon Springs’ charming downtown center is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Visitors to the Historic District can stroll along brick streets while browsing in art galleries, antiques stores, and specialty shops housed in buildings dating from the late 1800s.” Their tagline is also: “Visit Greece Without Leaving Florida” The Greek community is huge here, and the many restaurants and bakeries that line the main street are all Greek. Since we’ve been to Greece, we were excited to taste some more authentic Greek cuisine, coffee and pastries. We had booked three nights here at the marina and settled in for the evening. We were excited because my brother Jeff was coming to visit us tomorrow and he would be our first family we have seen since we left Cleveland on July 25. That night we did some cleaning and straightening up to prepare for the visit after we walked around town to see what was around. Hot showers were had and we finally felt like we had made it to south Florida. The weather was hot, almost 80 degrees, and it was still warm at night. We were safely docked and were relishing in the fact we were here. Dinner was made and we retired looking forward to tomorrow.

Day 2- Jeff cam to visit us with his girlfriend McKenzie. We were hoping he would bring his dog Mr. Cooper, but since we hadn’t talked about it, he decided it might not be best, since we didn’t know what we were going to be doing. They arrived around noon and we all sat around on the boat catching up and sharing stories. It was delightful! Eventually we decided to walk around town and grab some food since none of us had eaten in the afternoon. We made our way back to a restaurant next to the boat and had some dinner. More stories and catching up, then we had a nightcap on the boat. They had to eventually go back home, and I was sorry to see them go. I am so grateful they took the two hour ride to see us. I am sorry that I didn’t get any pictures, but we will hopefully see them when we come up the other side of Florida. Frank got another walk in and we had seen a dessert display in one of the windows and the key lime pie looked delicious. We picked up a piece and took it back with us to the boat. The pie was delicious and we retired for the evening feeling content and thankful for the visit.

Day 3- Tarpon Springs has a trolley that runs from Tarpon to Clearwater Beach, with stops all along the way in between. The cost is $5 for an all day pass to get on and off as much as you’d like, and the bonus is the trolley has a bike rack which holds two bikes. We decided to do this and away we went toward Clearwater. We rode for a while, then got off at a stop so we could bike. We were making our way to Clearwater Beach which was about four miles away. We made it there and were hungry for lunch. We stopped at a TripAdvisor recommended spot and enjoyed some poke bowls. We continued to bike around the beach area, the boardwalk, and the downtown area. We scoped out an anchorage we plan on coming to, and then made our way back to a bus stop to head back home. The bus finally came and we were loading the bikes on when another guy came around and saw us putting the two bikes on. He gave a scowl and rode away without a word. We boarded the bus and started the journey back. Now it was rush hour and the traffic was backed up for miles. The trip back was taking a lot longer than the trip there. We had decided we were going to get off at a Winn-Dixie grocery store to pick up some supplies if we ever got there. Eventually we came to the stop we wanted and we disembarked the bus with our bikes. Some light shopping later and we were biking back to the marina. We got everything unloaded and put away and decided to take Frank for a stroll through town. We picked up another piece of key lime pie to take back to the boat. We have made it a point to try and compare the key lime pies of establishments, and this one was the winner so far. On the way back we deviated through some side streets and found a small (gasp!) brewery that had just opened. The bartender was from Akron, Ohio and we all chatted for a bit. We had a beer and they gave Frank some water before we started back. After we enjoyed our dessert, we retired after looking at the weather and debating whether we should leave tomorrow as planned. The wind is supposed to pick up and the chances of rain are increasing, so we will decide what to do in the morning.

Day 4- So we stayed another day. The wind had indeed increased, although it never rained. I washed the boat down and tried to fix Lauren’s phone. She had cracked the screen and ordered a replacement which was delivered via Amazon to the marina. What a great convenience! My attempt at fixing it didn’t turn out so well, as I could not get some very tiny screws out and it now looked like they were stripped. I was frustrated beyond belief and was having a heck of a time with this. So much for being mechanically inclined. I eventually gave up and put it back together, only to have the home button not work now. Great. At this point Lauren was getting restless, so we decided to get the bikes out again and go for a ride. We were looking for a Chase Bank we had passed on the way to Clearwater, but realized it is quite far away. I ended up finding another location in ‘Old Tarpon Spring’ and we found our way there. This part of town we had missed, so it was nice to see something new to us, and there were cute shops, including a creamery we stopped at for some ice cream. Now we were heading back and wouldn’t you know, we found another brewery! We stopped for one there, then made our way back to the boat just as it was getting completely dark. Since we had not dined out since visiting with Jeff, we decided to go to a seemingly popular restaurant on the strip. We ended up at Hellas Restaurant and Bakery where we had a good dinner and the will power to not get another piece of pie.

Tomorrow still looks windy, but we are thinking we might still leave and anchor out in a protected key. The marinas are pricey, and anchoring out helps save some money. The forecast is for the wind to die down in the evening, so if we can leave and get anchored, we should be good for the night…

We again were prepared to depart around 7am. Today’s trip is the second to last open ocean jump we will have to make in a while. We spoke to our friends who stayed behind at Steinhatchee and it looks like they will be stuck there for a few more days at least. The weather is not cooperating for them, but as we have moved further south, we have had good travel days. Today is looking good as well.

We departed soon after Moonschooner and worked our way out of Cedar Key. There is another channel going out which I chose to follow and with help from a rising tide we had no issues getting out. I wanted to again play it safe, so I went about ten miles off shore before we were in ‘deep’ water of about twelve feet. We again had to watch out for crab pots and wind our way through the mazes of them. I continually adjusted our course so we would start angling in, but not go through any reefs or super shallow areas. Moonschooner had the luxury of staying closer to shore due to their shallow draft. Eventually we made it to our turn to head toward Crystal River. As we were heading in, I see Moonschooner turn in front of us! They had made the same time by staying closer to land.

Lauren and I had planned on anchoring out and we made our way to the anchorage. Moonschooner stopped at a marina for fuel and a pump out. As soon as we dropped anchor, a smaller sized boat came cruising toward us. Uh-oh I thought…maybe we cannot anchor here? The boat came up to us and called out “Do you need a pump out?” I had heard of these portable pump out boats, but this was the first I’ve seen one, let alone it coming to me. Lauren and I had discussed we will be needing one soon, so I asked the guy “how much?”. “Five dollars” was his reply. “Yes, please!” I responded and told Lauren what was going on. “Cool- saves us from going in!” Lauren was happy with this too. I later found out the Federal government subsidizes this around the country. If the company takes Federal money, they can only charge five dollars. If a private company chooses not to take the money, they can charge whatever they want, like the place I paid ten dollars, and I’ve heard of places charging upwards of twenty dollars! Once the pump out was complete, we hung out and made sure the anchor was set well. While we were sitting on the back deck we noticed manatee noses coming up and eating the sea grass that was floating around our boat! How cool! There were tour boats coming by us slowly every once in awhile with passengers watching the manitees and we had a front row seat.

Kings Bay is in the Crystal River and is known as “the best place in the whole world to view the manatee in their natural habitat!  World renowned Three Sisters Springs is right here in our backyard and plays home to hundreds of manatees in the winter.” We had watched kayaks and paddle boarders going back to one of the channels to the springs and decided to all load into the dinghy and see what we could find. We saw some people looking for manitees, and we realized we had the best view on our boat! We then continued to the city park dock, which had a sign, only boats with 18″ or less of draft are allowed; our dinghy falls into this category. We took Frank for a walk and went through town where they were preparing for their Christmas Parade which started at dusk. At this point it was around 4pm and we continued to walk around. We stopped at a coffee shop. I know no brewery shocks you, but there was none around us!Instead we found a seafood market called The Crab Plant. We went inside and they were awesome people. They came out to pet Frank and give him a shrimp treat. We looked at the selection and chose some fresh Gulf shrimp and was looking at the stone crab claws. The woman told me about ‘floaters’. They are younger crab, and the shell isn’t as hard, but it is the same and it is only $5.99 a pound! We took two pounds of claws and a pound of shrimp back to the boat for dinner. On our way back, we passed a wild orange tree and I picked two oranges, thinking I could use them later.

Once back, we opened the stone crab claws and started going at them. We were going to melt butter, but once we started eating them, we couldn’t stop. Two pounds was about twenty four claws. They were so good and sweet! As we were stuffing our faces, I noticed a small tender (dinghy) pulling up to our boat. We had noticed another Looper at the anchorage near us, and we had seen the boat on Nebo as well as in passing at some recent stops along the way. They pulled up and introduced themselves and we chatted for a bit. We were in conversation when it dawned on me we had just left crab claws and scraps scattered on the kitchen counter. The cats struck again! When I realized what we had done, I excused myself and popped back inside to find Alice on the couch with her own claw, and LuLu on the counter eating whatever she could get her face to. I shoo’d them away and came back out. After more pleasantries they departed and we went back inside to finish the last of the crab. We also made a note to pick up some cocktail sauce as you never know when it will come in handy.

Some more relaxing on the back deck, enjoying the (finally) warm weather of Florida. The temperature today was in the high 70’s, almost 80 degrees! It was the first day we had shorts on in I can’t even remember how long. The generator was fired up and we had Shrimp sauteed in butter with a squeeze of the tart oranges, and Old Bay, over rice. This was a simple and delicious meal for us and the oranges really added flavor. We had some wine with dinner and planned tomorrows trip. The weather is still looking good for us, and we hope to get to Tarpon Springs, where we will rest for a couple of days and once again pick up the Intracoastal Waterway.

The morning came and the forecast was still looking good. We got everything together and prepared for an early departure. Our friends on Trinity came over and assisted us with the lines. They are sticking around for a couple of days, as they are almost done with their Loop. They will ‘cross their wake’ south of Tampa, so they want to slow down and enjoy the last of the trip and some time in Florida for the winter before they go home to New York sometime in February for the birth of a grandchild. As we were pulling out, our new friends on the houseboat called out and asked where we were heading? We told them either Suwamee or Cedar Key, and they responded they have changed their minds and are going to Cedar Key. They pulled out not far behind us heading out of the river toward the Gulf of Mexico.

The ocean was calm and it was a great day to travel. We had chosen correctly with the help of Marvs Weather and our own diligence. The houseboat does not travel as fast as us, but they can go into more shallow areas than us. We had to go a few miles out to find deep enough water to make our way south. We also had to keep an eye out for crab traps, which are strung out across the ocean for miles, sometimes crisscrossing and snaking around. We can go between the floating buoys, which are about 75 feet apart and mark the traps, but you have to be careful not to get the lines tangled in the propellers. That could be very, very bad. We dodged crab traps and made our way south. We eventually came to the keys we were looking for. There is a marked entrance in, but it twists and turns, and at some points is very shallow- six feet, sometimes less. Just outside of the channel the water is only one and two feet deep. We could see birds standing in the water on shallow land we could not see. The charts we have shows the channel and markers, but sometimes the markers would be outside of the channel on my screen. This caused a dilemma, as do I follow the chart or the markers? The markers are on wood posts, so they do not move around like the floating ones in the rivers. At one point I was outside the marker and the depth was going down- 4’…3’…2’…Oh shit! We miraculously made it through and found some deeper water. We came around a bend and found our anchorage as listed on the maps. This was just outside the city pier, and there is a small marina inside the pier, if you can get a boat through 2 1/2 feet of water depth and eight foot height clearance. Most small fishing boats can do this. Our dinghy can also do this. We anchored outside of the channel by the pier in about ten feet of water depth. We made sure we were secure and called our houseboat friends (Moonschooner) to let them know we had arrived and to check in with them. They were looking at a later arrival due to their speed, but all was well and they were on the way. Once comfortable with our anchor holding, Lauren, Frank and I took the dinghy in to the city pier.

Here is Cedar Key Chamber: “Cedar Key is a quiet island community nestled among many tiny keys on the Gulf Coast of Florida. Long admired for its natural beauty and abundant supply of seafood, it is a tranquil village, rich with the almost forgotten history of old Florida. Our island is located 50 miles southwest of Gainesville, Florida. It sits three miles out into the Gulf of Mexico. Highway 24 is only one road coming into town. It crosses over the salt marshes and channels on four small, low bridges. The population is approximately 800 full time residents. There are no high rises or huge apartment complexes. We are a community of quaint cottages, single-family homes, working water front and aquaculture structures. The view as you cross the Number Four Bridge is spell-binding. Cedar Key is a haven for artists, writers and “adventure” tourists…the Cedar Keys form a chain of barrier islands ideally suited to a vast range of migratory and shore birds, including the elusive white pelican, roseate spoonbill and bald eagle. The variety of natural habitats, from salt marshes to Indian shell mounds, makes this truly a nature lover’s paradise. The small town feeling is absolute – transportation is by car, but the road is shared with bicycles and golf-carts. Drivers and pedestrians wave to locals and visitors alike greeting each other with a warm welcome to our island.” I love this stuff and it is true! The town is as charming as it sounds, and we were able to walk around and explore for a bit before we had to head back in the dinghy to our boat before nightfall. We have lights on the dinghy, but we like to play it safe. We were treated to a great sunset on the way back, and I deviated to say hello to our friends on Moonschooner who had arrived while we were gone. We all enjoyed the sunset and we spoke about tomorrows destination.

We finished the evening looking at weather reports and scouting out our next anchorage while we had dinner. We have a couple of days of traveling before we are back in the protected safety of the Intracoastal Waterway again. We hope to get to Crystal River should the day be good for traveling…

We were rolling most of the night, so not everyone slept well. I didn’t have a problem with it as I was on the inside of the bed with the wall on one side and Lauren on the other, so I couldn’t roll too much. We woke up around 6am and it was still dark out. We got the coffee going and watched the sun start to rise. Sirius was pulling out of the anchorage before there was much light. We were ready to go as soon as we had some light, so we pulled our anchor and started off behind Sirius. Trinity was not far behind us. The crossing started out a little bumpy as we were taking the waves on the beam which would rock us back and forth. The thing about the Gulf, is it is very shallow. Our route had to go about 20 plus miles off shore to get around the reefs and shallow, or shoaled areas, to get to our destination of Steinhatchee.

Steinhatchee is “A small town in Florida’s Big Bend region, Steinhatchee is known for its Spanish moss, the egrets/ herons who seem in nearly permanent residence, and the abundant fishing opportunities. In addition, miles and miles of tranquil country roads and bike trails await the relaxation-driven visitor. Steinhatchee combines the ambience of the 19th century with the conveniences of the 21^st century. Victorian waterfront homes line Steinhatchee shores, and footpaths and gardens decorate the surroundings. Steinhatchee is often referred to as “The Best Kept Secret in Florida.”” I love the way each city describes itself.

We all had reservations at the same marina, Sea Hag. We had heard the water is not potable and they do not have pump out facilities, but we were good on both so it wasn’t a concern for us. Besides, the price was a dollar a foot, so that was great. We only planned on staying one night anyway, and be moving on in the morning. The whole idea about jumping across the Gulf is the weather windows. You definitely need to exercise prudence and not put yourself in harms way. We obviously do not want to get caught in the ocean in a storm and/or large waves. We had signed up for a weather service which gives reports for the crossing via email. We would receive two emails a day from Marvs Weather Service giving us the current and expected weather for ‘the crossing’. This whole ‘crossing’ is quite built up, as it should be. This is a lot of peoples first big jump at night, or even far enough out you cannot see land like we were, and first time in the ocean. We were reading these emails daily, and we had left on the last of his ‘good’ crossing windows until possibly the following week.

The trip started at 7am and bumpy as mentioned, then a few hours into it, it started to settle down. We made our destination and tied up at the marina by 3pm. We made good speed, as I was throttled to the highest comfortable level and the seas eventually were giving us a little push. Once settled, I gave the boat a good wash down to get the salt off and get it generally back in good order as we had anchored out for a while and it was getting kind of grimy and looking unkempt. As I was doing this, the others started to arrive and I walked over to welcome them and assist with lines. Another boat, a houseboat, had pulled in and I recognized them from Birdsong Marina, where we experienced the severe high winds and I was worried that they had left in it. I introduced myself and passed out a boat card and we chatted for a bit. We were planning on leaving in the morning, and our friends were planning on staying for another day or two. I was worried we would miss the good crossing window and Lauren was in agreement- we would leave in the morning. Now I was hoping to travel with our houseboat friends and asked where they were going? They told me they were heading to the Suwanee River, which is about 35 miles away. Lauren and I had researched anchorages and saw this as an option, but the reviews were not favorable about it or the depths. We decided we would use this as a backup if the weather wasn’t good, and we decided we were going to try to get to Cedar Key, which is about 25 miles past Suwanee River. We had the night to think about it and decide.

We took the bikes around town for a short ride and to stretch our legs. We picked up a pizza form a local pizza shop and took it back to the boat. We wanted to relax and do more research on tomorrows trip. Lauren didn’t stay up too long as she had a rough night, and I did some more research and final planning. So tomorrow is up in the air as to where we will end up, but we do know we plan on leaving at first light, which is 7am around here…

The next day, the others were supposed to join us for a night. On the way to us, they called and said they were going to stop for fuel, but decided to get a little closer to our jump off spot to cross the Gulf, and they were not going to stay in Carrabelle. This was fine with us as it is a sleepy town and we were ready to make the big jump! I took Lauren to shore in the dinghy to run across the street to a grocery store for some supplies before we left, as we knew we could be anchoring for a few days and wanted some backup water jugs, fresh bread and milk. That didn’t take long, and then we waited. Once Trinity arrived, they went to the fuel dock and Sirius had continued on to the anchorage. We got ready to pull the anchor as they were departing and I had some trouble getting it up. The stern anchor had really dug in and I had to do some maneuvers to get it out, then we had to get the front anchor out, without sliding any further out of the channel as it gets real shallow, real quick. Once we got the anchors up we took off to follow them to the anchorage.

We had researched on our own places to anchor that were protected and were listed in our guide book as a good jump off spot. From here there are a few options: 1. go straight across some 180 miles, which requires an overnight passage. That is a ‘no’ for us. 2. Go across a little angled, making it a 2 stop trip, but it still requires a night passage and two jumps of almost 100 miles. That is also a ‘no’ from us. 3. Do what is called the ‘rim route’, which makes more stops, but doesn’t take you as far off shore and no night passages. Since we all travel on the slow side, we had all agreed the rim route was the best option. In our research, we saw there was a protected anchorage at Alligator Point. This is where we were heading, or so I thought. There are a bunch of reefs we have to skirt around, and I was watching the boats in front of us head south. Hmmm…maybe they were playing it safe? Then the radio came alive and it was Trinity telling me they were headed to a different anchorage that is around the corner from Alligator Point. Okay; this I wasn’t aware of, and now it made sense why they were going south, as we had to go about ten miles south to get around the point of the reef to get around it. I deviated our course and continued to follow them. In the mean time I started looking for the anchorage on the maps of where they were going. I couldn’t see any designated anchorages, but thought maybe they knew something I didn’t know. At this point we had a few hours of daylight left, and it was too late to turn around. Lauren and I were discussing the options of where they were going, but we decided to stick with them. We should have trusted ourselves, as it turned out they picked this spot to save themselves about seven miles in the morning. To be fair, they also thought it would be a little less windy and somewhat protected, but the spot was literally in the open ocean, about a mile or two from shore, with the wind and waves kicking up. Again, at this point the sun was going down and we had no other options but to drop the anchor and stay here or try to travel back in the dark, through the reefs and shallow areas, which we did not feel comfortable doing. I felt terrible and was angry for a few reasons. We were going to get rocked around all night, and we were too far from shore and it was too rough to even think about taking Frank to land. Poor Frank. We have puppy pads for him to use, but he isn’t too keen on using them. The wind and waves continued through the night, and it was a bit rough. We didn’t even start the generator for dinner as we were getting tossed about. I had some cereal and Lauren wasn’t feeling too good to eat, so once we realized this is it for the night, we went to bed. I wasn’t mad at our friends, I was mad we didn’t listen to our gut feeling and stick to our own plans.

We learned a lesson from this: follow our own plans. The night was rocky, and we knew we would be getting an early start because we had some miles to make and no one would be sleeping too well tonight…

We left in the late morning, leaving behind the other two boats we are traveling with. Trinity had some issues on the way to Apalachicola, and ordered a part which they were waiting to be delivered today. Since they were waiting, we decided to move forward and will meet up with them again soon. We had an uneventful trip of about thirty miles. This took us through St. George Sound and up the Carrabelle River. From the Carrabelle Chamber website: “Carrabelle is the last vestige of Old Florida on the Forgotten Coast, a haven for discriminating people who love the coastal outdoors but shy away from crowds. Three pristine rivers converge at Carrabelle and connect with the Gulf of Mexico, providing access to unstressed salt and freshwaster fishing grounds. Redfish, Grouper, Snapper, Trout, Cobia, Shrimp and Scallops: just a sample of the species that inhabit our waters.  And don’t forget our world famous Apalachicola Bay Oysters! Carrabelle connects to 750,000 acres of public forest for hunting, hiking, birding, trail-riding or just enjoying the passage of eagles, deer, blue heron, osprey and black bear. White sand beaches at Carrabelle Beach, St. George Island, and Alligator Point beckon beachcombers, swimmers and snorkelers. In Carrabelle you experience “Old Florida”. There are no high rise hotels and condominiums blocking your view, no four lane traffic congestion, just beautiful beaches, rich river marshes, boundless wildlife and a genuine welcoming spirit.” This was out trip here and I couldn’t say it any better.

Once we arrived to the area, we had seen on the maps that we could anchor in town, just out of the channel. We made our way through the town and found our spot. This seems to be the norm in Florida, people anchoring just about anywhere. We dropped the hook and made sure we were secure. I dropped a stern anchor to keep us from swinging into the channel and we were good. We lounged around a bit making sure we were securely anchored, then I took Frank in on the dinghy. I went to a small marina across from us and asked permission to tie up and walk Frank. The manager told me it would be ok, but he prefers we do not enter the property at night. I agreed to this, as we don’t usually dinghy at night unless absolutely necessary. We had heard from Trinity that the part had arrived and he had already installed everything and they would be coming to join us tomorrow. We contacted the marina they were going to, and was told they were full. Then they called back and said there is room, but since we were already anchored, we declined. Not much else happened, we hung out on the boat and relaxed until it was dark, then had dinner and retired for the evening.

The three boats Trinity, Sirius, and us woke up to a beautiful sunrise. We were all leaving at about the same time, so off we went! The trip today is about 66 miles, so we have a long day ahead of us. We will be traveling on the Intracoastal Waterway, crossing a few lakes and bays, until we reach our destination. Once we get to Apalachicola, we will be close to the end of the Intracoastal Waterway until it starts again farther south in Florida at Tarpon Springs.

We had a fairly uneventful trip and got to see some beautiful country. The dolphins would pop up and scare the crap out of me when they jump out in front of the boat without warning. Sometimes they would swim alongside of us and we would see them and expect it, but when they jumped out of nowhere it always startles me. I know its silly, but I feel like I’m going to run them over, even though they swim three times as fast than we’re actually moving. We tried getting pictures but of course every time we get our phone or camera ready, they would disappear. The palm trees, winding rivers and setting in general is quintessential Florida. Although the temperature hasn’t been hot yet, we definitely feel like we’re in Florida. Sirius had to slow down to fix a fuel issue they have been having and Trinity stayed with them while we continued on as the scout. We stayed a few miles ahead of them, but not too far.

Once we got to our destination, we called the marina to verify our dock number. They informed me they have moved us to another slip, and we will be in the first slip we come to. As we came down the river, it was hard to tell where their slips actually start. We accidentally passed it a bit on the approach, and I was trying to turn the boat around, which wasn’t easy as I was fighting a current and wind. I had the boat turned and was in a good position to back it in, when Lauren yelled out “don’t forget about the dinghy!”. Crap- I had forgot it was back there and backing in was a no-go with it back there. At this point all I could do was keep trying to get turned around so we could pull right in. There were several people at the dock waiting to assist us, and today we were the show! I finally got us turned around and headed back toward the dock and was able to bring us in with only a slight bump, but definitely in need of the extra hands waiting to assist. Once we got secured, our friends Trinity were turning into the river where the marina is. I walked down to assist them at their dock and watched as they struggled with the current as well. They got secured and we knew Sirius was not far behind. I went back and re-adjusted our lines and bumpers and made sure everything was ship shape. Sirius was pulling in and I walked down to assist them as well. They pulled in with no issues, like there wasn’t even a current or wind. Good for them!

Apalachicola is located in what is called “The Forgotten Coast”. This was coined in the early 1990s, by the Apalachicola Bay Chamber of Commerce. The name is most commonly used to refer to a relatively quiet, undeveloped and largely uninhabited section of coastline stretching from Mexico Beach on the Gulf of Mexico to St. Marks on Apalachee Bay. Once we were all settled, we agreed to meet for dinner at one of the local restaurants. Lauren and I were excited for the oysters, as more than 90% of Florida’s oyster production is harvested from Apalachicola Bay. We all met at the restaurant Up The Creek Raw Bar. We had oysters and sandwiches and thoroughly enjoyed our time together there. After dinner the others retired back to the boat while Lauren and I went on to see what else is around town. The town is quite charming and everyone was driving golf carts around. We walked around and found what else but a local brewery! Oyster City Brewing Company was on a corner as we toured the town. We decided to stop for one, because why not!? They were getting ready to close up, as a lot of the shops and restaurants in town close early. This was a Saturday night and it was only 8pm! We got two beers and sat outside on their patio table on the sidewalk while they closed up shop. They told us to take our time and not worry they were closing, but to enjoy ourselves. The people in this town are overly friendly and nice. We had our beer and decided to move on. We heard some live music around the corner and went to check that out. We ended up at the Bowery Station, a cool little bar with live music. We had a couple of $2 beers and enjoyed the music. We sat on the patio for a bit and just enjoyed the evening. Eventually we decided to head back to the boat, and as we were close to the marina, we could hear more live music coming from down the street at the next marina over. We looked at each other and decided to check that out too. We found ourselves at the Half Shell Dockside at the Scipio Creek Marina and had a beverage and listened to their band for a bit. Finally we decided we had better head back to our marina and get some sleep. We had booked a few days here due to some rain and weather that was heading our way, so we knew we could sleep in. As we were leaving the marina, a golf cart came zipping up from behind us and I put out my thumb, being funny. The cart came to a slow roll and the guy yelled out “tuck and roll! I’ll pick you up, but I ain’t stopping!” Lauren and I hustled over and the cart had a few people on it but there was room on the very back. He did stop and let us get on, then asked where to? We told him the Water Street Hotel, which is where our marina was, and he dropped us off there. We laughed the whole way there, and once he stopped to let us out I thanked him and he said “That’ll be ten bucks!” My mouth must have dropped open because he laughed and said “it’s all good- just messing with you!” and took off down the road. When I say they have nice people here, I cannot emphasize that enough.

Day 2- The next day was Sunday, and we hung out while it rained and watched the Browns beat the Steelers. Wait- they lost. I could go on about this, but I’ll try to not let it ruin my day again. Lauren kept telling me to stop yelling and swearing so loud as people were around to hear. I tried, but the Browns made me do it. After that debacle was over, we went for a walk around town again, this time with Frank. We walked around and ended up stopping at another local place Apalachicola Ice Company. They were very dog friendly and we sat on the patio and relaxed while they started up some karaoke. We hung out for a bit then went back to the boat for dinner. The rest of the night was uneventful and Frank enjoyed every minute of attention he received and his time on land.

Day 3- The rain had started overnight and continued a bit the next morning. When it finally stopped raining, we took the bikes for a tour of more of the city and surrounding areas. The town only has a population of about twenty two hundred, so its not that big. We rode around and saw a museum which is where the first patented ice machine was developed. This was also the beginning of the air conditioning invention, right here in Apalachicola, Florida. We continued on to the public pier and then to a cemetery where a few famous locals are buried and memorialized. We stopped and picked Frank up some homemade treats at a local pet shop and grabbed some supplies from the Piggly Wiggly market. We even rode to the next town to find an oyster shucker, which we found in an ACE Hardware for $5, whereas all the shops in town had them for $26 or more! We planned on getting a bag of oysters to shuck tomorrow before we leave, as when we stopped today we were told they wouldn’t have any oysters until tomorrow, so we want to be prepared. As we were heading back we received a call from our friends that they were at the Ice Company and we should stop there to join them, so stop we did. We enjoyed everyone’s company then a blues band started playing. They were great, but it was too loud for conversation, so we all went on our way back to the marina and our boats for the night.

Tomorrow we will be heading to Carrabelle, which is the last stop on the Intracoastal Waterway before we jump across the Gulf and down south to pick it up again.

This morning we woke up pretty early due to the fact we went to bed pretty early, and I also wanted to be awake when the dock master shows up in case they wanted to move us or needed the space at the fuel dock. I took Frank for his morning walk and when I returned, I saw some people showing up to work. I hung out on the boat drinking my coffee waiting for someone to come to the fuel dock. I noticed a smaller boat coming at us, and I asked if he needed fuel? He replied he did, and I told him there was room in front of us. I assisted with the lines and he told me how much he needed. “I don’t work here.” was my reply. He apologized and soon a woman was coming to the dock to assist his needs. As he was filling up, I asked about where I should be moving to. The woman had no idea, and said she’d get back to me. Since we were here, I told her I would top off our tanks too. I topped off our fuel and consulted with Lauren. We had decided we would just leave here today and anchor out tonight, but Lauren wanted to dinghy over to Shell Beach to explore and hang out for awhile. I agreed and we told the dock master we were going to depart shortly. We topped off our water tanks after the fuel and were casting our lines. We motored over to the entrance of the harbor and dropped anchor just outside of the channel. We had been in contact with our friends on Trinity and they were making their way to the marina. I told them our plans, and knew we would see them when they entered. While we were in the dinghy, Trinity text us and said they had changed their minds and were not going to stay at the marina after all. I had told them aside from the power, there were no facilities such as a shower or laundry available, so they decided they would just anchor out too. Panama City Beach is still rebuilding from Hurricane Michael so a lot of places have very minimal amenities still. We all have showers aboard so it is not too bad, but it is nice to take a shower on shore where we don’t have to conserve the water usage and there is more space!

We took Frank with us over to the island and walked around for a bit. We then made ourselves comfortable on the Gulf coast, relaxing on the beach. Lauren and I both went swimming in the Gulf as the weather was warm and the water was cool. We recieved a text from Trinity that they and Sirius were going to an anchorage about ten miles past Panama City Beach. We told them we would join them after we returned to Klondike and pulled anchor. We made it back around 230pm and headed to where our friends were at Pearl Bayou.

The bayou is tucked back and pretty well protected, with plenty of room for several boats. There were a few boats already anchored there which look like they stay there all of the time. It is very noticeable in Florida already that people seem to abandon their boats at anchor. I’m not sure of the circumstances, but we have seen many of them and it is an issue all over Florida. This is a reason why many municipalities are banning anchoring in their cities, which is a shame for those that care and are passing through. We pulled in and anchored close to our friends and settled in for the night. The winds were light and I took Frank to shore before the sun set. We were careful to look for alligators, I have yet to see one, but we know they are here. As the sun went down, we were treated to a spectacular array of colors in the sky. It was breathtaking. Once the sun was gone and it got dark, Frank started to bark at things that were breathing in the water; you could hear them but not see them, and I think it may have been gators, or dolphins, but more than likely gators. I retrieved a flashlight and was trying to spot what was making the sounds, but couldn’t locate the perpetrators. It was a little spooky hearing this, but knew they could not climb on board!

We started the generator and prepared dinner, then called it a night. Our friends on Sirius were planning on leaving at first light- they only travel around five knots, so they need to get a head start. We plan on leaving around 7am, as it will be another long trip tomorrow to get to Apalachicola, Florida. Trinity made reservations for the three of us at a marina that is not too expensive, and we will all stage there for a few day before we make the ‘big’ trip across the Gulf. We are almost to the point we have to cross across the Gulf of Mexico where the Intracoastal Waterway ends to get to Tarpon Springs, where the Intracoastal will resume in protected waters. Getting to this point is a big deal, and some make the jump 160 miles straight across in a 24 hour jump. Due to our speeds, we will be doing it in shorter hops of fifty to seventy miles a day about twenty five miles off shore, coming into harbors for the nights.

Happy Thanksgiving! We pulled out of Destin Harbor by 8am. We had to make about sixty miles today to get to our next destination of Panama City Beach. We had made reservations as we knew no one would be around today since it is a holiday. They had told us to tie up to the fuel dock when we arrive, which had power and water available, and they would see where to move us to on Friday if we stayed another night. Our friends on Trinity had reached out and really wanted us to anchor with them and Sirius for Thanksgiving, but we were already a day ahead of them, so we had to decline.

We left the harbor following the same track we brought in. We made it out with no issues and followed the Intracoastal waterway. In the open waters across the Choctawhatchee Bay we were fighting a current. The bay is about twenty five miles across from where we started. This had me a little worried as we were down to 6.5 knots and lower. At this rate we wouldn’t make our destination until after dark. As soon as we left the bay though, we started to pick up speed in a narrow part of the waterway. Alright! maybe we will make it by dark! We continued on and soon came to more open water on the West Bay which connects to St. Andrew Bay. This open water didn’t have as much current, so we kept our speed pretty good, but it was a lot of twisting and winding to follow the marked channel. It is something to look out and see nothing but water, but you can only stay afloat in the channel as everything else around you is really shallow- two and three feet shallow! Since we’ve already run aground once, I am doing everything I can not to do that again.

After an eight and a half hour trip, we arrived to the harbor where we reserved the dock. We slowly made our way in, being careful to follow the buoys. It is counter-intuitive to go as close to shore as the buoys are, but that is where it is deepest. We passed by about twenty feet from shore, but the depth stayed around nine to ten feet. We found the marina and saw the fuel dock where we were told to tie up. We docked with no issues and left room for another boat if required in front of us. Now that were were tied up and secure, it was time to make Thanksgiving dinner.

Dinner consisted of Tofurkey, mashed potatoes, gravy, brussels sprouts and stuffing. Lauren can work magic with our small kitchen and she really outdid herself! She had to prepare one item at a time, except for letting the Tofurkey roast in the oven. Mashed potatoes first, then the vegetables and stuffing. We put the table together in the salon and even had candlelight. We enjoyed our dinner and gave thanks for being able to enjoy this meal, our supportive family and friends, and will remember this Thanksgiving for years to come!

We retired soon after with full bellies and a possible plan for tomorrow. We were expecting to stay here two nights, but we think we will anchor out tomorrow instead and save some money. Our friends on Trinity and Sirius will be catching up with us tomorrow as they plan on staying here at this marina, but we will be close by…